{"id":"01KG8AKY54WKS2TW9WZVS92XMZ","cid":"bafkreicgry3vul326xjm3xpuvu6qwvar5bcxvebgsuwlrl4qrkcyaiugu4","type":"chunk","properties":{"end_line":9746,"extracted_at":"2026-01-30T20:48:18.539Z","extracted_by":"structure-extraction-lambda","label":"Chunk 1","source_file":"01KG89J1HYC04JWXEK48P07WPK","start_line":9671,"text":"CHAPTER XC.\r\nRare Sport At Ohonoo\r\n\r\n\r\nApproached from the northward, Ohonoo, midway cloven down to the sea,\r\none half a level plain; the other, three mountain terraces—Ohonoo looks\r\nlike the first steps of a gigantic way to the sun. And such, if\r\nBraid-Beard spoke truth, it had formerly been.\r\n\r\n“Ere Mardi was made,” said that true old chronicler, “Vivo, one of the\r\ngenii, built a ladder of mountains whereby to go up and go down. And of\r\nthis ladder, the island of Ohonoo was the base. But wandering here and\r\nthere, incognito in a vapor, so much wickedness did Vivo spy out, that\r\nin high dudgeon he hurried up his ladder, knocking the mountains from\r\nunder him as he went. These here and there fell into the lagoon,\r\nforming many isles, now green and luxuriant; which, with those\r\nsprouting from seeds dropped by a bird from the moon, comprise all the\r\ngroups in the reef.”\r\n\r\nSurely, oh, surely, if I live till Mardi be forgotten by Mardi, I shall\r\nnot forget the sight that greeted us, as we drew nigh the shores of\r\nthis same island of Ohonoo; for was not all Ohonoo bathing in the surf\r\nof the sea?\r\n\r\nBut let the picture be painted.\r\n\r\nWhere eastward the ocean rolls surging against the outer reef of Mardi,\r\nthere, facing a flood-gate in the barrier, stands cloven Ohonoo; her\r\nplains sloping outward to the sea, her mountains a bulwark behind. As\r\nat Juam, where the wild billows from seaward roll in upon its cliffs;\r\nmuch more at Ohonoo, in billowy battalions charge they hotly into the\r\nlagoon, and fall on the isle like an army from the deep. But charge\r\nthey never so boldly, and charge they forever, old Ohonoo gallantly\r\nthrows them back till all before her is one scud and rack. So charged\r\nthe bright billows of cuirassiers at Waterloo: so hurled them off the\r\nlong line of living walls, whose base was as the sea-beach,\r\nwreck-strown, in a gale.\r\n\r\nWithout the break in the reef wide banks of coral shelve off, creating\r\nthe bar, where the waves muster for the onset, thundering in\r\nwater-bolts, that shake the whole reef, till its very spray trembles.\r\nAnd then is it, that the swimmers of Ohonoo most delight to gambol in\r\nthe surf.\r\n\r\nFor this sport, a surf-board is indispensable: some five feet in\r\nlength; the width of a man’s body; convex on both sides; highly\r\npolished; and rounded at the ends. It is held in high estimation;\r\ninvariably oiled after use; and hung up conspicuously in the dwelling\r\nof the owner.\r\n\r\nRanged on the beach, the bathers, by hundreds dash in; and diving under\r\nthe swells, make straight for the outer sea, pausing not till the\r\ncomparatively smooth expanse beyond has been gained. Here, throwing\r\nthemselves upon their boards, tranquilly they wait for a billow that\r\nsuits. Snatching them up, it hurries them landward, volume and speed\r\nboth increasing, till it races along a watery wall, like the smooth,\r\nawful verge of Niagara. Hanging over this scroll, looking down from it\r\nas from a precipice, the bathers halloo; every limb in motion to\r\npreserve their place on the very crest of the wave. Should they fall\r\nbehind, the squadrons that follow would whelm them; dismounted, and\r\nthrown forward, as certainly would they be run over by the steed they\r\nride. ’Tis like charging at the head of cavalry: you must on.\r\n\r\nAn expert swimmer shifts his position on his plank; now half striding\r\nit; and anon, like a rider in the ring, poising himself upright in the\r\nscud, coming on like a man in the air.\r\n\r\nAt last all is lost in scud and vapor, as the overgrown billow bursts\r\nlike a bomb. Adroitly emerging, the swimmers thread their way out; and\r\nlike seals at the Orkneys, stand dripping upon the shore.\r\n\r\nLanding in smooth water, some distance from the scene, we strolled\r\nforward; and meeting a group resting, inquired for Uhia, their king. He\r\nwas pointed out in the foam. But presently drawing nigh, he embraced\r\nMedia, bidding all welcome.\r\n\r","title":"Chunk 1"},"relationships":[{"peer":"01KG8AJWVXAANNR2K2B8HFD9ZM","peer_type":"chapter","predicate":"in"},{"peer":"01KG89J1HYC04JWXEK48P07WPK","peer_type":"file","predicate":"extractedFrom"},{"peer":"01KG89HMDZKNY753EZE1CJ8HZW","peer_type":"collection","predicate":"collection"},{"peer":"01KG8AKYV1Q2ETBW9P0DST6012","peer_type":"chunk","predicate":"next"}],"ver":2,"created_at":"2026-01-30T20:48:20.644Z","ts":"2026-01-30T20:48:32.965Z","edited_by":{"method":"manual","user_id":"01KFF0H3YRP9ZSM033AM0QJ47H"}}